Belay technique for ice climbing is very similar to rock climbing. The biggest difference is placing protection and building anchors in an often fragile medium. Proper load distribution and protecting the anchor become much more critical. To make the most of this fickle frozen substance, you need to understand how ice forms and transforms, and remember a few simple tips and techniques to increase speed, efficiency, and the overall level of fun.
Prior to heading out, answering a few key questions will help to choose the right gear
What type of crampons do I need?
Choose crampons with vertically-oriented front points, either mono or dual-point depending on the route and what you are accustomed to using. Mono-point crampons are better suited for mixed terrain or hard ice, and dual-points offer more stability and are more effective in brittle ice. Be sure to maintain and sharpen your front points on a regular basis, allowing them to better cut into rather than shatter the ice.
Why climb with leashless ice tools?
Leashes limit freedom of movement, make it harder to shake out your forearms, and hinder the ability to perform high-end moves. Modern ice tools are equipped with ergonomic shafts and grips that are easy to handle. Picks should be well maintained and properly sharpened. Additional pick weights make the axe easy to swing and plant into hard ice. Using a pair of tools with a hammer and adze allows you to deal with any situation.
What size ice screws should I bring?
Always choose high-quality ice screws. Poor quality screws are difficult to place and put you at a greater risk if you need to place a screw quickly. You will need to carry at least 14 ice screws: 2 long screws for the lower anchor, 2 long screws for the upper anchor, and 10 screws of various lengths (5 L, 4 M, 1 S) per pitch. Ice screws need to be well-maintained and sharpened on a regular basis; one dull or damaged tooth makes it difficult or even impossible for the screw to engage. Specifically-designed holders make it easier to clip and unclip an ice screw from your harness.
The essential kit for ice climbing (keep reading on Petzl website)
INFO: Petzl
