Extreme mountaineers Benedikt Böhm (36), Sebastian Haag (35) and Andrea Zambaldi (31) are once again planning another ski expedition for fall 2014 in the Himalaya. This time, however, it’s not just one 8,000er on the list, but rather two back to back.
The goal is to ski speed-style up both SHISHA PANGMA (8,013m/26,289 ft) and CHO OYU (8,201m/26,906 ft) in seven
days. In addition, the stretch between the two base camps will be covered exclusively “by fair means” – i.e. on a mountain bike or in running shoes. The entire operation takes place at high altitude and without supplemental oxygen. With this adventure, they enter a completely new dimension of speed mountaineering.
The 2014 expedition is planned for Aug. 20 to Oct. 4. The seven “summit days” are expected to take place during the last two weeks of the expedition. After successful acclimatization, the following schedule is planned for the critical seven days:
- DAY 1: Start from Shisha Pangma’s ABC (Advanced Base Camp) at 6 p.m. for the speed climb (max. 24 hours) (8,013 m/26,906 ft)
- DAY 2: Return to ABC (5,600m/18,373 ft)
- DAY 3: Descend to Base Camp (5,000m/16,404 ft)
- DAY 4: Stage by mountain bike from Base Camp to Tingri (4,300m/14,108 ft)
- DAY 5: Stage from Tingri to Cho Oyu Intermediate Camp (5,300m/17,388 ft)
- DAY 6: Climb from Intermediate Camp to Cho Oyu’s ABC (5,700m/18,701 ft)
- DAY 7: Evening start for the speed climb of Cho Oyu (max. 24 hours) (8,201m/26,906 ft)
- DAY 8: Evening return to ABC (5,700m/18,701 ft)
Aside from the truly huge challenge of conquering two 8,000ers in speed-ski style, the two also want to cover on mountain bikes about 170km (106 miles) between the two base camps. Approximately the first half of the route
follows the so-called “Friendship Highway” that connects Kathmandu/ Nepal with Lhasa/Tibet. Then it goes from Talsenke behind the Lalung La Pass to TIngri. The stretch from base camp to base camp largely travels on poor gravel trails with up to a 15-percent climb. When it comes to conditions, they also must be prepared for snow or large scree fields along the route that of course can significantly slow progress.
Altogether, there is a total altitude difference of 6,500 m (21,325 ft) of ascent and descent to overcome. Plus, between
the summits and the high plain of Tingri, there is a temperature difference of approximately 40°C (104°F) to cope with over a short timespan.
Both extreme mountaineers are not exactly unknowns. Back in 2005, the two started taking on adventures in the high mountains of Karakorum and the Himalaya to conquer the peaks in speed style. They always forego the use of supplemental oxygen and travel with minimal gear in order to ascend and then descend as quickly as possible. An additional critical point is the ski used not only for the ascent but also for the descent.
The speed-ski style never uses gear caches. In 2005, the two young mountaineers and friends Böhm and Haag set off for the first time on an expedition. With a speed climb with ski descent of Gasherbrum II (8,035m/26,362 ft) as well as of Mustagh Ata (7,546m/24,757 feet), the two from Munich created a new discipline in high-altitude mountaineering. In subsequent expeditions to Broad Peak (8,051m/26,414 ft) in 2009 as well as to Manaslu (8,136m/26,759 ft) in 2007
and 2012, they not only collected summits, but also on-the-edge experiences. Today, they stand for a perfect combination of the disciplines of quick ascents and rapid ski descents in the death zone.
